I have to use the bathroom. More information than you need to know, but be warned: Nature’s Call can be troublesome in this part of the country....
Tombstone, Arizona
In 1877, Ed Schieffelin discovered silver at a site where soldiers from Camp Huachuca warned all he would find was his tombstone. (That was a $30...
Dude Ranching at an Outlaw Haunt
I take a deep breath and stare at the glacier-capped Wind River Mountains. My quarter horse Hank has probably seen this view a hundred times, but he...
Grass Valley, California
Located in the heart of California’s Gold Country, Grass Valley was once a small settlement of fortune hunters who arrived just after the Gold Rush...
(Not Really) Roughing It on the Mark Twain Trail
By jingo, does everybody in Hannibal, Missouri, think he’s Mark Twain—the driver on the tour bus, the guide at the Mark Twain Cave, even Mark Twain...
John Colter’s Favorite Mistake
Screeching and yelling “like so many devils,” the Blackfeet grabbed at the driftwood raft hovering above the swimming naked man. Although humiliated...
Denton, Texas
Founded in 1857 as a county seat, Denton grew slowly until the railroad reached town in the 1880s. A rail outlet brought a considerable increase in...
Buffalo Bill’s Wild Bunch
With binoculars in hand, Kenny Martin of Wild Mustang Tours and I look across the badlands of McCullough Peaks in search of the “Wild Bunch,” one of...
Be Like Remington
A delirious blood-covered cavalry soldier rises up. Firing his pistol, he makes a mad dash to run through the Lakota warriors. One warrior rushes...
Be Like Remington
A delirious blood-covered cavalry soldier rises up. Firing his pistol, he makes a mad dash to run through the Lakota warriors. One warrior rushes...
Following 19th-Century Ute Trails
Nathan Meeker raised a crop of distrust, anger and resentment among the Utes that led to disaster. In one of his first acts as agent, Meeker...
Wanted: Riders for the Pony
On a hot August day, I borrowed a dark bay quarter horse named Jake to participate in a Pony Express Trail Ride from the ghost town of White Oaks to...