The first time I visited the Pine Ridge Reservation in the southwest corner of South Dakota, I stopped at the Wounded Knee Memorial—and I couldn’t get out of the car. After a minute or two, I drove away. It’s that kind of place. Twenty years later, I’m back, bound and determined to find a feel-good story on the two million-acre reservation, home to roughly 40,000 Oglala Lakota. Think that’s easy? This time, I make myself get out of the car at the Wounded Knee Memorial. On December


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