It is late August, but the air is crisp as I board the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad in Durango, Colorado. The firemen are already stoking the engine and little puffs of smoke waft into the air. Once everyone is seated, the train lurches forward slightly, rolls back and then jerks forward again as the puffs of smoke become a billowing cloud that settles over the train depot. Riding in an open car, which has a roof but no windows, I smell burning coal that is not diffused in an


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