"Far away from my wife and child, and six hundred miles of constant danger in an uninhabited region was not a pleasant prospect for contemplation,” Santa Fe Trail traveler Hezekiah Brake noted in 1858. “But I laughed with the rest, joked about roasting our bacon with buffalo chips, and the enjoyment we would derive from the company of skeletons that would strew our pathway.” It doesn’t seem so bleak these days. The Santa Fe National Historic Trail is well inhabited, especially in Cent


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