Ominous clouds threaten rain as I pull off Highway 80 near the Arizona-New Mexico border at the Skeleton Canyon monument. I debate whether or not I should drive to the actual site where the Apache Wars ended when Geronimo surrendered in 1886. Louis Kraft’s story echoes through my head—no, I didn’t have a margarita at the Gadsden Hotel tavern in Douglas, Arizona. If you donâ€


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