The two most recognizable fashion icons of the American West are selling out worldwide.
Born out of necessity in the post-Civil War West, the American cowboy hat and Western boot have defined their wearers for over 150 years. Corporate American hatmakers and bootmakers in business since the 19th and early 20th centuries and local, modern, custom hatmakers and entrepreneurial boot (and now hat) makers such as Tecovas are all seeing a resurgence in the popularity of fashionable and practical headgear and footwear around the world.
What is driving sales of Western hats and cowboy boots? For over a century, popular culture has inspired millions to add hats and boots to their wardrobes. Taylor Sheridan’s recent Yellowstone and 1883 and the classic Westerns such as Tombstone and Lonesome Dove have driven fans of the custom hats and boots shown on-screen to seek out their own to wear and enjoy. Western ranching, farming, culture, music and rodeo also have influenced the sale of hats and boots domestically and internationally.
Want to learn more about the history of the cowboy, cowgirl and the gear that won the West? From Oklahoma City to Los Angeles, Western museums have new and ongoing exhibitions that feature the evolution of the iconic gear from the 1860s to the present. Most of our favorite Western museums (see the September 2022 issue) feature exhibits on the history of the cowboy, buckaroo and vaquero. Recently, True West’s top museum for 2022, The National Cowboy & Western Heritage Museum, debuted “Sombreros, Texanas and Bosses of the Plains,” an exhibition on cowboy hats and their popularity from the Old West to Hollywood.
In honor of the hats and boots that won the West, here are some of our favorites, past and present. So, get out there, cowboy and cowgirl up, and get yourself outfitted. Wear them proudly, no matter where you call home!
The Open Road
An all-time classic is back on top!
Stetson’s Open Road made its debut in 1937 and has been a mainstay of the American hat company’s repertoire ever since. After World War II, the Philadelphia hatmaker advertised the Western fedora nationwide with slogans including “East or West, the Stetson is Part of the Man…” and “Almost as popular on the Avenue as they are on the Open Road.” The versatile 4.25-inch crowned, 2.75-inch short-brimmed felt hats with a cattleman’s crease are worn anywhere, anytime by everyone from presidents to ranchers and country stars to cowgirls. Today, the iconic Stetsons have become popular again, from Austin to New York, and are all handmade at the company’s headquarters in Garland, Texas.
Michael Dorman has renewed the popularity of Stetson’s Open Road 6x cowboy hat as the title character in the Paramount+ streaming series Joe Pickett. Courtesy Paramount+
In 2021, Paramount+ launched Taylor Sheridan’s streaming series 1883, starring Isabel May as Elsa Dutton. Her distressed Plainsman style cowboy hat has become a popular request at custom hat stores across the United States, including Ugly Outlaw Hats in South Pasadena, California. Courtesy Paramount+
Cowboy hats are as individual as the cowboys who wear them, as demonstrated by this hungry group of hands sitting down for an evening meal around their chuckwagon. Courtesy Library of Congress
Tecovas, including the Josie, a two-tone suede Western boot, can be ordered online or in person at one of the custom boot company’s retail stores found in 12 states. The company has recently also started selling cowboy hats for men and women. By Kayla Kubiata, Courtesy Tecovas Boots
Thirty years ago, Tombstone’s costumers doubled down on the popularity of the Western hats and gear in Lonesome Dove (1989), and the Western style of the ensemble film remains popular with fans and reenactors alike. Courtesy Buena Vista Pictures
Not to be outdone by the men in her family, this early 20th-century Montana cowgirl is ready to ride in her best hat, boots and riding dress. Courtesy Library of Congress
Bootmakers show off their craftmanship in their Alpine, Texas, boot shop in 1939. Russell Lee, Courtesy Library of Congress
Catalena Hatters in Bryan, Texas, is renowned worldwide for custom felt and straw hats for men and women. Founded in 1983, the company is well-known for custom Gus felt hats, the style Robert Duvall made famous in Lonesome Dove. Courtesy Catalena Hatters
Robert Duvall and Tommy Lee Jones made their respective hats, the Gus and the Captain Woodrow Cal, famous worldwide. Still popular 33 years after the series aired on CBS, the hats are made by most custom hatmakers, including the creators of the hats, Manny Gammage’s Texas Hatters, in Lockhart, Texas. Courtesy CBS Television
Like the first bootmakers on the Western frontier of Kansas and Texas, Tecovas bootmakers in León, Guanajuato, Mexico, make every pair of boots by hand. By Brie Benson, Courtesy Tecovas
A champion rodeo star in the 1920s and early 1930s, Vera McGinnis (front, center) and two of her rodeo circuit friends sport their favorite hats, boots and Western wear, all of which are back in fashion today. Courtesy True West Archives
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